Müller-Thurgau
Variety · Intermediate · 2 min read
Müller-Thurgau is a white grape variety, originally thought to be a Riesling x Silvaner cross (the parentage was corrected in 1996 to Riesling x Madeleine Royale). It was bred in Switzerland in 1882 by Hermann Müller-Thurgau and is one of the most widely planted varieties in Germany. In the UK, it is grown for early ripening, reliable cropping and soft, easy-drinking white wines.
Why Müller-Thurgau matters in the UK
Müller-Thurgau is one of the most reliable varieties in the UK, ripening in almost any year and producing clean, fruity wines with notes of apple, pear, white flower and a touch of Muscat-like aroma. The vine buds late, which is an insurance against spring frosts, and it is moderately disease resistant, which keeps spray requirements lower than for Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.
The variety is grown across the UK, with significant plantings in Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, the South West, the Midlands, East Anglia, Wales and Yorkshire. It is particularly popular with smaller producers and with vineyards on more challenging sites, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir might struggle to ripen reliably.
What Müller-Thurgau tastes like
A well-made English Müller-Thurgau is fresh, fruity and easy to drink, with notes of apple, pear, white flower, a touch of Muscat, and a soft, almost creamy texture from the lees. The variety is naturally low in acidity, so most UK producers retain a small amount of residual sugar to balance the wine. The result is a clean, refreshing white that works well as an everyday drinker and with a wide range of food.
Müller-Thurgau is not the most prestigious variety in the world, and it is sometimes dismissed by critics as a workhorse grape. But in the UK, where it fills a useful niche on more marginal sites, it has an important role to play. The best English examples are far better than the bulk German wines that gave the variety a mixed reputation in the 1980s and 1990s.
Müller-Thurgau in the UK industry
Müller-Thurgau is grown by a number of smaller English producers, including Chapel Down (in their everyday tier), Halfpenny Green in Staffordshire, Adgestone on the Isle of Wight, and several Welsh producers. The variety is also used in some English traditional method sparkling blends, where its early ripening and soft character add a touch of fruit to the base wine.
As the UK industry matures, Müller-Thurgau is likely to remain a niche variety, used on sites where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are not viable. It is unlikely to become a flagship variety, but it fills a useful role, particularly for the smaller producers who serve a local market.