Candover Brook Vineyard: Hampshire's Regenerative Sparkling Wine Estate in the Candover Valley
Hidden in the chalk-rich folds of Hampshire's Candover Valley, where a rare chalk stream threads its way through 2,000 acres of family farmland, lies one of England's most quietly ambitious sparkling wine estates. Candover Brook is the project of brothers Mark and Julian Sainsbury, whose late father, Lord John Sainsbury, planted the first five hectares of vines here in 2012 after a dream that had taken root decades earlier in the cellars of Champagne. Today, the wines that bear the name of that brook have collected Decanter Golds, Wine GB Trophies and the International Wine Challenge's top prize for English sparkling, yet the team still describes their work with the same understated phrase: quietly progressive, with respect for tradition.
This guide walks through the place, the people, the regenerative philosophy that shapes the vines, the wines themselves, where to find them, and how to plan a visit in spirit if not always in person.
The Place: A Single Vineyard in the Candover Valley
Candover Brook sits within the much larger Preston Farm, a 2,000-acre estate in the village of Preston Candover in north Hampshire. The valley is one of those landscapes that gets under your skin, as the team themselves put it: chalk streams, wide skies, and the particular quality of light over the vines in the early morning. It is this landscape, more than any winemaking trick, that gives the wines their character.
Terroir: chalk, slope and a chalk stream
The vineyard is a five-hectare block of south-facing vines planted on silty clay loam soils over a free-draining chalk subsoil. The chalk is the defining element: the same aquifer that feeds the eponymous brook feeds the vines, and the porous rock acts as a sponge, holding rainfall in dry periods and letting it drain freely when there is too much. Above ground, the chalk stream is one of only around 200 such habitats left in the world, most of them in southern England, and one of the few remaining strongholds of the rare white-clawed crayfish.
The vines themselves are a careful mixture of Burgundy and Champagne clones of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, selected for their suitability to Hampshire's climate. They are double-guyot pruned to balance vigour with maturity, and the rows are interplanted with meadow grasses and clovers. In spring and winter, sheep graze the vineyard to keep the grass down and naturally build soil fertility.
A family farm, not just a vineyard
Candover Brook is part of a wider regenerative farm. Meadow grasses, clover leys and carefully managed grazing are woven across hundreds of acres, with the vineyard sitting in the middle of this living agricultural system. The estate has achieved carbon neutrality and holds higher-tier Countryside Stewardship and LEAF certification. It is also a founding member of the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain programme.
The People Behind Candover Brook
The Sainsbury family
The story starts with Lord John Sainsbury, the former CEO of Sainsbury's, who in the 1980s began touring the vineyards of Champagne and dreamed of making his own sparkling wine. It was there that he met a young, pioneering winemaker called Hervé Jestin. The dream had to wait until retirement, and in 2012, with his sons Mark and Julian, John finally planted the first vines on the family estate.
Today, Mark and Julian run both the vineyard and the broader farm according to regenerative principles. Mark, often credited as co-founder of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, is the managing director; Julian works alongside him, and the pair are pictured with their mother, Lady Anya Sainsbury, in family photographs. The partnership with Hervé Jestin, who has become one of the world's most respected sparkling winemakers, has been continuous from the start.
Vineyard manager: Samuel Philippot
The day-to-day care of the vines falls to vineyard manager Samuel Philippot, who was born in the Languedoc region of France, surrounded by vineyards. He studied agronomy, viticulture and oenology in the South of France before embarking on a career devoted to the craft. Samuel is the face of the team through the seasons: pruning, frost-fighting, canopy management and harvest.
Winemaker: Félix Gabillet
The wines are made by winemaker Félix Gabillet, working in close consultation with Hervé Jestin. Together they follow a non-interventionist, biodynamic-influenced approach that prizes patience over intervention.
The wider team and the community
At peak times, up to sixty people are employed on the land around the vineyard. The Candover Valley community also plays a hands-on role: each spring, neighbours gather for Frost Watch, lighting candles at the bottom of the slope in the small hours to shift air and protect delicate buds. Local venues, including the village hall and The Yard, have hosted screenings of the documentary A Year in the Life of a Vineyard, giving neighbours a behind-the-scenes look at the seasons, the challenges, and the regenerative philosophy that shapes the wines.
Regenerative Farming and the White-Clawed Crayfish
Regenerative farming is not a marketing line at Candover Brook. It is the operating system. The brothers champion practices that enhance soil carbon sequestration, biodiversity and the preservation of ancient woodlands, and they argue that a healthier landscape produces more compelling fruit.
Why soil matters
The vines' roots burrow through a thin topsoil of around 20cm and into the porous chalk below. That chalk does two jobs at once: it lets rainfall drain freely during wet Hampshire winters, and it acts as a sponge, holding reserves the vines can draw on in dry summers. The team's approach to soil includes compost teas, sheep grazing and even the experimental use of sheep fleeces as mulch. Director of Farming Craig works hand-in-hand with Samuel Philippot to develop practices that continually improve the soil, an endeavour the family acknowledges will never truly be finished.
A partnership for the white-clawed crayfish
The chalk stream that runs through the valley is one of the last refuges of Britain's only native crayfish, the white-clawed crayfish, an internationally endangered species. Up to 95% of the UK population has been lost since the mid-20th century, largely because of the spread of the North American signal crayfish and the crayfish plague it carries.
Candover Brook is an official partner of the Hampshire & Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust (HIWWT). For every bottle sold online or within a 15-mile radius of the vineyard, the winery donates 50p to HIWWT's white-clawed crayfish project. The Trust has spent years breeding the crayfish in captivity and re-introducing them to safe habitats, including a 2022 release of 200 white-clawed crayfish into a safe section of the River Itchen. Both the brook and its crayfish are celebrated in the design of every Candover Brook label.
Winemaking: Patience Above All Else
Candover Brook's winemaking philosophy is built around a single idea: nothing is rushed. To obtain irreproachable quality, only the best bunches are hand-harvested, and the winery relies on biodynamic techniques while respecting traditional champenoise methods.
From grape to base wine
Whole bunches are pressed and vinified in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks to retain their youthful fruit character. The wines undergo 100% malolactic fermentation, and base wines are bottled late, extending tank age to maximise the benefit of autolysis following the primary fermentation.
The solera
Reserve wines are blended in from a solera dating back to 2011, increasing consistency and aromatic complexity across vintages. This is the technique the French call assemblage, a careful layering of years.
Time on lees
After bottling, the wines are aged on lees for a minimum of 36 months for the Brut and 27 months for the Rosé. The current release of the Brut NV is aged for at least 42 months on lees, with a further 6 months on cork after disgorgement. Following disgorgement, the Brut receives a 6.1g/L dosage.
The Wines
Candover Brook makes two sparkling wines, both traditional method, both from the same single Hampshire vineyard. They are released only when the team believes they are ready.
Brut NV
The flagship wine is a delicate balance of freshness and richness, based on the outstanding 2019 vintage and blended with around 19% reserve wines from the solera.
- Blend: 40% Chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir, 21% Pinot Meunier
- Winemaker: Félix Gabillet
- Closure: Natural cork
- ABV: 12%
- Residual sugar: 6.1g/L
- Acidity: 8.6g/L
- Wine pH: 3.14
- Bottle size: 75cl
- Ageing: Minimum 42 months on lees, plus 6 months on cork
- Notes: Sustainable, vegetarian, vegan
Tasting notes. On the nose, floral notes complement nutty and toasty overtones. Bubbles are generous without being overwhelming. The palate starts with hints of floral citrus, then creamy vanilla and orchard fruits on the mid palate, finishing long, streamlined and mineral.
Price: From £38.00 per bottle. Available as a single bottle, a single bottle with gift box, or a case of six. Free UK Mainland delivery on orders over £90.
Rosé NV
The non-vintage Rosé is vibrant, elegant and refined, made in the méthode traditionnelle from 85% of the 2019 vintage and a reserve wine held in the solera that dates back to 2011.
- Blend: 60% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Meunier
- Winemaker: Félix Gabillet
- Closure: Natural cork
- ABV: 12%
- Residual sugar: 9g/L
- Acidity: 8.2g/L
- Wine pH: 3.11
- Bottle size: 75cl
- Ageing: Minimum 36 months on lees, plus 6 months on cork
- Notes: Sustainable, vegetarian, vegan
Tasting notes. On the nose, expect a soft creaminess wrapped around notes of fresh peach, sun-ripened plum and cherry blossom. The palate is finely textured, with a delicate mousse and silky mouthfeel. Juicy stone-fruit flavours give way to deeper notes of plum marmalade, all carried on a mineral, bone-dry backbone. Precise, vibrant and beautifully balanced, it finishes with refreshing poise, a true reflection of the Hampshire terroir.
Price: From £43.00 per bottle (regular price £43.00, sale £38.00). Available as a single bottle, a single bottle with gift box, or a case of six. The next Rosé release is scheduled for June 2026.
Mixed Case
For those who cannot choose, the Mixed Case pairs Brut and Rosé in one box.
- Format: Mixed pair (2 bottles) or full case of six (3 of each)
- Price: From £77.00
The mixed case is the most popular way to compare the two wines side by side and is a frequent pick for gifting, celebrations and curious first-time customers.
Awards and Press
Candover Brook has accumulated an unusually long medal haul for such a young producer, a fact regularly noted by the trade press.
2025 awards
- Wine GB Awards: Gold - Candover Brook Brut NV
2024 awards
- Wine GB Awards: Gold - CB Brut NV; Gold - CB Rosé NV
- The Real Review: Silver Ribbon - CB Brut NV; Silver Ribbon - CB Rosé NV
- International Wine & Spirit Competition: Silver (92 points) - CB Brut NV; Silver (91 points) - CB Rosé NV
- Decanter World Wine Awards: Silver (92 points) - CB Brut NV; Bronze (89 points) - CB Rosé NV
- International Wine Challenge: Silver (91 points) - CB Rosé NV; Bronze (88 points) - CB Brut NV
- Sommelier Wine Awards: Gold - CB Brut NV
- Wine Merchant Top 100: CB Brut NV
2023 awards
- Decanter World Wine Awards: Gold (96 points) - CB Brut NV; Bronze (87 points) - CB Rosé NV
- Wine GB Awards: Gold - CB Brut NV; Trophy - Best Newcomer; Trophy - Best Regional (Wessex)
- International Wine Challenge: Gold (96 points) - CB Brut NV; Trophy - Best English Sparkling (Classic Blend)
- The Drinks Business Autumn Tasting - Global Wine Masters: Gold - CB Rosé NV; Silver - CB Brut NV
2022 awards
- Decanter World Wine Awards: Silver (93 points) - CB Rosé NV
- International Wine Challenge: Bronze - CB Brut NV
Critical reception
Wine writers have been quick to champion the wines. Matthew Jukes, writing in Vineyard Magazine, urged readers to "track down a bottle and raise a glass." Decanter's 2022 awards panel called the Rosé "an accomplished rosé, with vibrant and perfumed, bright red berry fruit that bursts from the glass," adding that "Candover Brook is an exciting new name on the English wine scene." The wines have appeared in Decanter, The Drinks Business, Hampshire Life, The Daily Express, City AM, Luxe Beat Magazine, Luxury Lifestyle Magazine, Woman & Home, Round & About Magazine, Hampshire Chronicle, The Evening Standard, The Daily Mail, Vineyard Magazine, Sussex World, JancisRobinson.com and Glass of Bubbly.
Sustainability and the Regenerative Estate
Candover Brook's commitment to sustainability goes beyond the vineyard. It informs soil health, biodiversity, packaging and the broader supply chain.
Soil and biodiversity
Meadow grasses and clover are interplanted between the vines; sheep graze the site in spring and winter to keep grass low and promote soil fertility; compost teas and other low-input interventions are deployed in place of synthetic chemicals; and mulches including sheep's wool have been trialled. The estate has achieved carbon neutrality and is higher-tier Countryside Stewardship and LEAF certified.
Packaging and presentation
The new gift boxes launched in late 2024 were made in the UK to minimise the carbon footprint and support the UK economy. Candover Brook is also a founding member of the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain programme.
Industry recognition
Co-founder Mark Sainsbury started the Sustainable Restaurant Association back in 2009 and has long championed provenance and sustainability. Candover Brook's regenerative work has been cited by the Sustainable Restaurant Association as an example of best practice, alongside producers like Wildfarmed.
How to Buy: The Candover Brook Shop
The wines are sold direct from the estate through the online shop at candoverbrook.co.uk/collections/shop. Free delivery is offered on UK Mainland orders over £90, with orders under £90 charged from £7.49. Newsletter subscribers receive 10% off their first order, and ordering 3 or more bottles in the basket triggers automatic free shipping.
Stockists across Hampshire and beyond
For those who prefer to buy in person, the wines are listed at a handful of carefully chosen independent stockists:
- Auriol Wines, High Street, Hartley Wintney, Hook RG27 8NY (01252 843190) - auriolwines.com
- Candover Valley Stores, Alresford Road, Preston Candover, Hampshire RG25 2EE (01256 389500) - cvcs.org.uk
- Caviste at Newlyns Farm Shop, North Warnborough (01256 703130) and 6B High Street, Overton (01256 703130) - caviste.co.uk
- The Naked Grape, The Old Exchange, Station Road, Alresford SO24 9JG (01962 732002); 6 Oak Green, Four Marks GU34 5HQ (01420 562060); 108 High Street, Hungerford RG17 0NB (01488 684684) - thenakedgrape.co.uk
- New Forest Wines, 8 Christchurch Road, Ringwood BH24 1DN (01425 489771) - newforestwines.co.uk
- The Wine Yard, 113 West Street, Lion and Lamb Yard, Farnham GU9 7HH (01252 717557)
- Wellington Farm Shop, Welsh Lane, Reading, Hook RG27 0LT (0118 932 6132) - wellingtonfarmshop.co.uk
Candover Brook is also a member of Hampshire Fare and Wine GB South East, and is listed on Wine GB.
Visiting and Events
Candover Brook does not currently run a public cellar door in the traditional sense; the wines are enjoyed at tastings, dinners and community events through the year rather than at a fixed tasting room.
Vineyard events
Recent events have included the "Candover Brook & Canapés" evening in the vineyard that celebrated the HIWWT partnership, and a dinner with the team from Moro. The estate plans more of these in 2025, and updates are sent by email to subscribers.
The Candover, Preston Candover
Mark and Julian have worked with the team behind The Candover, the new pub opening in Preston Candover, creating a special-edition wine to mark the occasion. Described as "a beacon of hospitality nestled in the Candover Valley," The Candover is set to become a focal point for visitors wanting to taste Candover Brook locally.
Candover Valley Stores milestone
In 2026 the team raised a glass with Candover Valley Stores to mark a special milestone: the shop has now sold its 1,000th bottle of Candover Brook. The partnership was, in the words of the team, "built on shared pride in the valley."
Behind the Scenes: A Year in the Life of a Vineyard
In summer 2023, filmmaker Jess Bassett began following a year at Candover Brook, from harvest 2023 to harvest 2024. The result is the short documentary A Year in the Life of a Vineyard, which has been screened locally and is available on the Candover Brook YouTube channel. A four-minute documentary by Bassett also accompanies the feature article Finding balance in the Candover Brook: where wine meets water.
Harvest 2023
After a wet July and August, the team made a green harvest, removing 15% of grape bunches to achieve ripeness. A late September heatwave helped, and by 17 October all the fruit was in: a record-breaking crop. Samuel Philippot and his team were praised for their high standards, with only the very best fruit making it into a bottle.
Vintage 2024
2024 was described as a turning point for the winery. The team expanded, the regenerative message was brought more clearly into the labels and packaging, and a partnership dinner with Moro took place in the vineyard. The 2018-based maiden vintage of the Brut sold out, and the new release is built on the 2019 harvest.
Practical Information
- Operator: Candover Valley Wines (partnership company)
- VAT number: 136096216
- Address: Preston Farm Estate Office, Preston House, Preston Candover, Hampshire, RG25 2DS
- Phone: +44 7866 511061
- General enquiries: info@candoverbrook.co.uk
- Local jobs and partnerships: office@candoverbrook.co.uk
- Website: candoverbrook.co.uk
- Instagram: @candoverbrook
- YouTube: Candover Brook YouTube channel
Orders placed online are for customers aged 18 and over, with age verification required on delivery. Standard delivery is via Royal Mail 48 or Parcelforce 48 (2 working days), with next-day upgrades available. Same-day dispatch cut-off is 2pm on weekdays. For orders outside UK Mainland, including the Scottish Highlands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man, customers are asked to email info@candoverbrook.co.uk for a shipping quote.
Why Candover Brook Matters
In a fast-growing English sparkling wine category, Candover Brook stands out for what it chooses not to do. The team does not chase volume. They have not hurried the wines to market; the current Brut is aged for at least 42 months on lees. They have not ignored the landscape around them, choosing instead to weave the vineyard into a 2,000-acre regenerative farm and to dedicate 50p from every Hampshire sale to the white-clawed crayfish project. And they have not detached the wines from the people who drink them: the village frost watch, the screenings in the village hall, the partnership with the local pub and the local store, are all part of the same story.
The result, in the glass, is two wines that have already won some of the most respected trophies in the international wine world. The Candover Valley is, as the family likes to say, a place that gets under your skin. Once you have tasted what grows there, it tends to stay with you as well.