Decanting

What decanting does

Two things, ideally. First, it separates the wine from sediment, the deposit of tannins, colour pigments and tartrate crystals that form in a bottle over time. Pouring slowly, or through a small mesh strainer, keeps the deposit in the bottle. Second, it exposes the wine to a small amount of air, which softens the tannins and lifts the aromas. This is the breathing effect, and it is most useful for young, structured red wines that have been tightly sealed.

A third effect, more controversial, is a change in the wine's temperature. A decanter warms a red wine slightly as it sits, which can be helpful or unhelpful depending on the starting point.

Decanting English wines

Most English wines do not need decanting. English still reds, particularly Pinot Noir, are typically made in a style that is best enjoyed from the bottle, where the temperature stays constant and the aromas open gradually. English whites, rosés and sparkling wines are almost always better straight from the bottle.

The exception is an aged, mature red from a good vintage. A 10-year-old English Pinot Noir, if you can find one, often benefits from a gentle decant, both to remove any sediment and to let the wine stretch after a long time in a sealed bottle. The winemaker's own tasting note will usually tell you if a decant is recommended.

How to decant properly

Stand the bottle upright for 24 to 48 hours before opening, so any sediment falls to the bottom. Open carefully, pour slowly into a clean decanter, and watch the glass as the wine approaches the shoulder of the bottle. Stop pouring when you see the first hint of sediment. A small candle or a torch held behind the bottle helps, especially for older wines.

Decanting time depends on the wine. A young, structured red might benefit from 30 to 60 minutes. An older red needs only a few minutes, and decanting it too long can cause it to fade. A fragile old wine may be best opened and poured straight into glasses, without a decanter at all.

Decanter design and the UK market

Decanters range from simple bulb shapes to elaborate hand-blown designs. The Riedel and Zalto brands are popular in the UK, along with the English-made Dartington Crystal decanters. A good decanter has a wide base, a narrow neck and a pouring lip that allows controlled flow.

Cleaning a decanter properly is harder than it looks. The classic method uses warm water, a handful of uncooked rice or crushed eggshells, and a vigorous shake. There are also dedicated decanter cleaning beads made of stainless steel, sold at most good wine accessory shops.