Smith & Evans Wines: Award-Winning English Sparkling from Higher Plot Farm, Somerset
Tucked away on a White Lias limestone ridge one mile west of Langport on the Somerset Levels, Smith & Evans is one of the smallest and most distinctive producers of English sparkling and natural wine in the country. Husband-and-wife team Guy Smith and Laura Evans planted their vineyard at Higher Plot Farm in 2008 and, more than fifteen years later, their wines are bottled, blended and sold entirely from this single nine-acre farm. With just over 3,000 vines, around 4-5,000 bottles produced each year, and an uncompromising approach to site, clones and natural fermentation, Smith & Evans has become a benchmark for what a small, hands-on English vineyard can achieve.
A Family Vineyard Born in the Heart of Somerset
Smith & Evans is, first and foremost, a family business. Guy Smith spent most of his career in the drinks industry at an international level, working with producers across Europe, Australia and New Zealand for companies including United Distillers, Rémy Cointreau, Castel Frères and Freixenet, before he and Laura sold their suburban home in 2008, gave up their jobs, and bought Higher Plot Farm with the specific intention of producing English sparkling wine of the highest possible quality.
Laura, who had a career in film editing, works in the vineyard alongside Guy throughout the year, and their story has been picked up by national press including a featured visit by ITV Westcountry, who came to film the vineyard as Guy anticipated a bumper crop driven by warmer summers.
Today the couple work the land themselves, supported by a small group of loyal volunteers who return year after year for harvest. "Many of them have done every single harvest and it's a wonderful social occasion," Guy notes in A Year on the Farm. The grapes go to the winery the same day they are picked, and once they have been delivered, Guy admits, "we breathe a large sigh of relief."
The Search for the Perfect Site
The decision to plant at Higher Plot did not happen overnight. In Livin' the Dream!, Guy explains that he and Laura spent between four and five years searching the whole of the south of England for the right place. "If you want to make good wine, the most important single decision you will ever take will be location," he writes. "The fact that a vineyard would look pretty from your dining room is not a good reason to plant there."
What they eventually found at Higher Plot was a 9.1-acre farm with a 1.1-hectare vineyard block on a White Lias limestone ridge: calcareous clay and loam over free-draining limestone, south-facing, between 22 and 27 metres above sea level, in the rain shadow formed by Exmoor, the Quantocks and the Blackdown Hills. It is, as Guy says, "similar to some of the greatest terroirs of Champagne and Burgundy," and sits in the driest part of the West Country, with rainfall comparable to all but the very driest parts of Sussex and Kent.
The site has produced grapes with phenolic ripeness every year since planting, with the exception of 2012, and in many vintages red cultivar alcohols would top 13% if they were not harvested earlier for sparkling. Frost damage has been minimal, with losses in even the most severe springs not exceeding 1-2% of the crop.
Higher Plot Farm: Limestone, Terroir and a 300-Year History
Higher Plot Farm itself is far older than the vineyard. Records suggest there may have been dwellings on the site since Roman times, but the main farmhouse was completed in 1763, with later additions including a separate barn conversion in 1861. Until 1997 the property had no running water or electricity, and it still retains original features including a bread oven and a well. It is built from White Lias limestone quarried from the land above the farm and is Grade II listed.
The land was long recognised as exceptional for fruit growing. The terracing carved into the hill is at least 300 years old and was originally built for orchards, when cider was considered to be of the same quality as the finest wines. That same south-facing slope now carries the vineyard, while the rest of the farm, noted for having the widest biodiversity to be found in Somerset, has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).
A Living SSSI
Much of the land at Higher Plot is unimproved limestone grassland that has never had any form of chemical fertiliser or herbicide applied. The site supports more than 20 species of butterfly and rare orchids including Bee, Pyramidal and White Hellebore. The orchard is hundreds of years old and lies on terracing that is possibly Roman or, more likely, Saxon Lynchetts, making it more than 1,000 years old. The farm is grazed by sheep from Pitney Farm, replacing trees as they age and helping to maintain the rare sward.
The original SSSI citation describes Aller Hill as comprising three discrete blocks of herb-rich calcareous grassland and associated woodland, with nationally rare plants including Salad Burnet, Rough Marsh-mallow and Nit-grass, and Somerset rarities such as Wild Liquorice, Fiddle Dock and Lesser Centaury.
The Vineyard: Dijon Clones on White Lias
The vineyard block at Higher Plot is planted with just over 3,000 vines, almost all of them Burgundian varieties on high-quality Dijon clones chosen for full flavour rather than champagne clones. "Being Burgundian, they are intended for interesting still wine, which is our starting point," Guy told Jancis Robinson.
The vineyard is planted as follows:
- Chardonnay Clone 76 on rootstock 161.49: 500 vines
- Chardonnay 96 on Fercal: 500 vines
- Meunier 900 on SO4: 1,050 vines
- Pinot Noir 777 on SO4: 150 vines
- Pinot Noir 667 on SO4: 800 vines
As a rough average the farm produces around 5.5 tonnes of grapes per year (well above the national average), which yields the 4,000 to 5,000 bottles that Smith & Evans sell direct to visitors and to trade customers. The vineyard is managed without any insecticides or systemic chemicals, with Guy and Laura relying on keeping the soils as healthy and alive as possible to nourish the vines.
A Year on the Farm
Life at Higher Plot is intensely seasonal. Winter pruning takes around 21 days, which Guy describes as "quite meditative once you lose yourself in the landscape." Once the vines are tied down onto the wires, a five-day job, there is a short break until bud burst in mid to late April, the same time the vineyard tours begin.
Shoot selection takes about ten days of walking the rows, followed by flowering in late June, leaf removal to improve airflow around the potential fruit, and sprays every two to three weeks depending on the weather. Mid-August to the end of September is a waiting period and the family usually tries to get away for a quick pre-harvest break, before harvest itself, usually a single day, brings around thirty volunteers to the farm to pick from first thing in the morning through to mid-afternoon. October to January is largely downtime, with the small matter of Christmas sales to keep things lively.
Sustainability: Biochar, Wool Fleeces and Sheep
Smith & Evans are quietly experimental when it comes to sustainability. In Biochar: Back to the Future, Guy explains how they have begun charging biochar with compost-borne microbes before applying it under alternate vines, in an effort to boost microbial life in the soil and capture carbon that would otherwise be released as the original plant material decomposed.
In Fleeced, the couple describe trialling British wool fleeces under the vines as a sustainable alternative to mechanical weeding. Laying fleeces along around 3,000 metres of vine is a huge job, but the early signs are encouraging: the fleeces suppress weeds without compacting the soil, add nutrients as they break down, and reflect light back into the canopy. The vineyard is also grazed by sheep in winter, both to keep weeds down and to supply microbe-rich manure.
Current pruning follows techniques developed by Simonit & Sirch, what Guy calls, tongue in cheek, "the Salt Bae of grape growing," which encourage the use of continuous new wood and allow the vines to regenerate naturally. Pruning itself is a sociable affair: volunteers Lou and Philip come to help on Mondays in exchange for lunch and the occasional bottle of wine.
The Wines of Smith & Evans
From their first harvest in 2010, Guy and Laura have pursued a quietly consistent philosophy. The wines are produced using natural fermentation with wild yeasts present in the vineyard and winery, no chaptalisation, and judicious use of very old French oak barrels, including, famously, third-use barrels from Château Smith Haut Lafite ("sadly no relation!"). Reserve wines going back to the maiden 2010 vintage are blended into later releases, giving the range a remarkable continuity.
Higher Plot Vintage Sparkling
The flagship range, made in tiny quantities, is the Higher Plot Sparkling. The wines are aged on lees for four years before disgorgement and contain around 10-15% reserve wine from previous vintages, often stretching right back to 2010.
- 2015 Smith and Evans Higher Plot Sparkling - £37.00. "Possibly the best sparkling wine we've made so far," combining the richness of the 2013 and the crisp freshness of the 2014; disgorged late 2019.
- 2018 Smith and Evans Higher Plot Sparkling - £36.00. Combines the richness of the 2013 with the depth of the 2011; disgorged late 2023 after four years on the lees.
- 2019 Smith and Evans Higher Plot Sparkling - £31.00. Laura's favourite vintage: lemony freshness on the nose with beautiful fruit on the palate, slightly more Pinot Noir and Meunier than Chardonnay, disgorged late 2024.
Trilogy Multi-Vintage Releases
The Trilogy range is the top cuvée, blended from reserve wines drawn from the very best barrels across multiple vintages. Both wines have scored 95/100 from Decanter Magazine.
- Trilogy One Multi Vintage - £39.00. A blend of reserve wines from 2010, 2011 and 2012, made with no added sulphur or dosage. Decanter called it "a complex, edgy glass of fizz" with pronounced oloroso sherry notes.
- Trilogy 2 MV - £40.00. The second release, mainly from 2013, 2014 and 2015, with wines back to 2010. Richer and fuller-bodied than the vintage wine; silver medal in the national competition.
Smith and Evans 2010 LD (Late Disgorged)
For the 2010 vintage's tenth anniversary, Guy and Laura released fifty bottles of their maiden sparkling, kept on lees for thirteen years in the family cellars. Late disgorgement preserves the wine's freshness and these bottles now resemble a Blanc de Blancs: fresh, mineral, with distinctive grapefruit citrus. Smith and Evans 2010 LD - £45.00.
Higher Plot Natural Wines
From the 2023 vintage, Smith & Evans have moved into still natural wines, fermented with wild yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered.
- Higher Plot 2023 Natural Ferment Chardonnay - £26.00. Their first 100% Chardonnay, fermented in old oak barrels with natural yeasts from the grapes and made in collaboration with Tommy Grimshaw of Langham Estate. Ripe and rich with toasty and tropical fruit notes. Gold medal at WineGB and now in the running for the UK's Best White Wine and Best Wine Overall.
- Higher Plot 2023 Natural English Pinot Noir Rosé - £17.00. A blushing-pink natural-ferment English rosé made from Pinot Noir, with spicy wild strawberry and cherry fruit. Best left to breathe like a red wine to show its full potential.
Past Releases
Past releases document earlier wines that have largely sold through, including the original 2010 Sparkling: 60% Chardonnay with the remainder split between Pinot Noir and Meunier, around half of which spent three months in third-use white wine barrels from Smith Haut Lafite before two and a half years on its lees, and the 2010 White Wine, which retained remarkable freshness and balance of fruit even at the very last bottles in 2014.
Rare Wines from Friends: The "Other" Cellar
As Guy puts it, "from time to time we also sell one or two delicious bottles from friends around the wine world." The result is a small, hand-picked selection of wines from producers Guy has known personally for decades, kept as a separate offering of mainly red and aged bottles.
Rioja and Ribera del Duero with Jesús Madrazo
- Jesús Madrazo Crianza 2019 - £28.00. 92 points from Tim Atkin. A pan-regional blend of Tempranillo and Graciano from Cuzcurrita with 7% Garnacha from Rioja Oriental.
- Jesús Madrazo Selección Ribera del Duero 2016 - £45.00. From the biodynamic plot "El Abuelo" with 40-year-old Tempranillo and almost 80-year-old Garnacha, fermented without added yeasts and aged 18 months in second and third-use barrels.
- Jesús Madrazo Selección Rioja 2019 - £45.00. 94 points from Tim Atkin. A blend of Tempranillo with 20% Graciano, 30% Maturana and 5% Garnacha from parcels in Lapuebla and Laguardia.
Miguel Merino in Briones
Miguel Merino was the inspiration behind Smith & Evans. In Big Mig, Guy explains how meeting Miguel in the mid-1990s (when Guy was working for Freixenet) showed him that an ordinary person could build a serious small bodega from scratch. Miguel sadly passed away a couple of years ago but his son has taken over the winery.
- Miguel Merino Viñas Jóvenes - £22.00. From the "Young Vines" vineyard El Rincón, planted in 2001 south of Briones. Matured 15 months in second-use oak; blackcurrant, vanilla and leather on the nose with smooth tannins.
- Miguel Merino Vitola Reserva - £29.00. 93 points from Tim Atkin Rioja Report 2021. Ripe red and black fruit, cloves, black pepper and spice; tobacco, liquorice and coffee on the palate.
Bordeaux and Australia Cellar Gems
- Château Giscours 2006 Margaux - £65.00. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. A traditional, ageworthy style of Bordeaux.
- Château Montrose 2000 - £170.00. Purchased en primeur from Farr Vintners and stored in the Smith & Evans cellar ever since. Jeb Dunnuck 96/100.
- Léoville Barton Saint-Julien 2005 - £120.00. Jane Anson 98/100. Deep ruby, broad-shouldered, laced with aniseed, liquorice and bitter black chocolate.
- 1993 Penfolds Grange - £290.00. 86% Shiraz, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon. Purchased on release from Laithwaites; cellared in Hampshire and, since 2007, at Higher Plot Farm.
- Château Latour 1957 - £389.00. Bottle purchased at auction, level top-shoulder: the perfect 70th birthday or anniversary bottle in 2027.
Rare Whisky
Alongside the wines, the Smith & Evans shop carries a small but carefully chosen selection of rare whiskies.
- Glen Elgin 1968, bottled 2002 by Gordon & MacPhail - £800.00. A Speyside single malt from a distillery long at the heart of the White Horse brand, with its distinctive "small tall" stills and copper worm condensers.
- 1981 Suntory Old Whisky Portopia Bottling - £190.00. 43% ABV, 760ml. Bottled for the 1981 Portopia Festival at Port Island, where Suntory had their own pavilion.
- 1970s Suntory Old Whisky - £140.00. A very rare 50-year-old bottling of the Suntory Classic, 760ml, 43% ABV.
- Late 1960s / Early 1970s Johnnie Walker Red Label Export 1 Litre - £110.00 (reduced from £120.00). Probably produced for the UK Duty Free market; label slightly scuffed but otherwise in good condition.
Vineyard Tours and Tastings at Higher Plot
Smith & Evans welcome visitors to the farm every Saturday from Easter to the end of September, between 10.00am and 4.00pm, and again at Christmas. At other times the vineyard is not normally open without prior notice, but a phone call to 01458 259075 ahead of a visit is warmly received.
Saturday Self-Guided Tours
The self-guided tour is the simplest way to visit. Guests are welcome to wander through the vines at their own pace, collect an information sheet at the gate, and then come into the tasting room in what was once the old cider cellar to try two of the wines. Tasting is £8.00 per person and no booking is required.
Private Guided Group Tours
For something more in-depth, Guy leads a private guided tour and tasting for groups of six to fourteen people, lasting around an hour and a half depending on how long the conversation lasts. The tour begins with a walk through the vines, where Guy talks about life on the farm and explains how the wines are made, before guests sit down to a tutored tasting of four Smith & Evans wines. The price is £20.00 per person. Tours run April to September and must be pre-booked by emailing info@smithandevans.co.uk.
The Retrospective Tasting
From time to time Smith & Evans also run special ticketed tastings. The Smith and Evans Retrospective 2010 - 2023, priced at £30.00 per ticket and limited to thirty people, is a rare chance to taste a range of wines from the very first 2010 vintage through to the 2023 Chardonnay, including the top cuvée Trilogy, paired with local cheeses, charcuterie and bread.
Press, Awards and Critical Acclaim
Smith & Evans have built an unusually strong critical reputation for so small a producer. Their awards include:
- 2010 Late Disgorged: Gold Medal and Trophy for Best Classic Cuvée Sparkling at WineGB West
- Trilogy One: 95/100 from Decanter Magazine
- Trilogy 2 MV: 95/100 from Decanter Magazine (on its second release)
- 2023 Natural Ferment Chardonnay: Gold Medal at WineGB Awards, in the running for UK's Best White Wine and Best Wine Overall
- 2019 Higher Plot Sparkling: Silver Medal Overall in WineGB West
- 2011, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2017 Natural Ferment, 2018: multiple Silver Medals at WineGB and the International Wine Challenge
The wines have been written up by Jancis Robinson, Jamie Goode of Wine Anorak, Tom and Tim Atkin, Jonathan Ray in The Spectator, and listed by both Elle Magazine (in their Top Fourteen most Luxurious English Sparkling Wines) and Harper's Bazaar (in their Top Twelve English Sparkling Wines). The vineyard was also featured by ITV Westcountry in August 2023.
Guy Smith was named Somerset Life Drinks Producer of the Year and Western Daily Press Food and Drink Producer of the Year finalist. He continues to share his perspective on the English wine industry through his Substack, guythegrape.
Where to Buy
The simplest way to buy is direct from the Smith & Evans shop, which ships with free delivery. Selected trade stockists include:
- Yapp Brothers in Mere, one of the country's finest fine wine merchants
- Davys Wine Merchants, on the A303
- Teals, an upscale farm shop and restaurant
- The Colonnade in Bristol
- The Bristol Great
- Malt Barber in Bermondsey
- Somerset Wine Co in Castle Cary
- The Etsome
- The Devonshire Arms
- Little Wine Shop in Taunton
- The Barrington Boar
- Pitney Farm Shop
Smith & Evans are also offered by Langport Stores and Castle Hotel & Brazz Brasserie locally, and have previously been available through independent merchants such as The Wine Pantry in Borough Market.
Bert the Vineyard Dog (and the Late, Great Fred)
No profile of Higher Plot would be complete without mention of the dogs. The first vineyard dog, Fred, was a rescue who arrived in the back of a Land Rover and even though he was only a year old, was already on his third home. He was completely untrained but soon realised that his luck was in and there was food on offer: "Beloved by all that met him," as Guy writes in Bert, Vineyard Dog. His successor is Bert, a handsome mix of Lab, German Pointer and "lots of other breeds" who is, in Guy's words, "still very much a trainee."
Visit Higher Plot Farm
Higher Plot Farm is at Aller Road, Langport, Somerset TA10 0QL, one mile west of Langport with its cafes, pubs and river access, and well placed for a day out on the Somerset Levels. Visitors are welcome on Saturdays between 10.00am and 4.00pm from Easter to the end of September, and again at Christmas. At other times it is best to call ahead on 01458 259075 or email info@smithandevans.co.uk. For groups of six to fourteen, Guy leads private guided tours and tutored tastings between April and September, priced at £20.00 per person, one of the most personal ways to experience an English vineyard.
The winery is active on Facebook, Instagram, X (Twitter) and the Smith & Evans YouTube channel.