Winding Wood Vineyard: A Boutique Biodynamic Sparkling Wine Estate in West Berkshire
Nestled in the quiet west corner of Berkshire, between the historic market town of Hungerford and the larger town of Newbury, sits Winding Wood Vineyard - a small, hand-tended, organic and biodynamic estate that has quietly become one of the most decorated boutique producers of English sparkling wine. With just 2,500 vines split across two modest fields, every bottle that leaves the cellar carries the unmistakable fingerprint of a husband-and-wife team who gave up other careers to plant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on a former sheep paddock in 2012.
The estate's story covers its origins, its switch to organic and Demeter-certified biodynamic viticulture, the meticulous traditional method used at Offbeat Wines with Daniel Ham, the award-winning wines available today, the tours and tastings on offer through summer 2026, and the seasonal rhythms that shape a year at Winding Wood.
A throwaway remark that became a vineyard
Like so many of Britain's best wine stories, Winding Wood began with a glass in hand and a bit of idle talk. "The adventure began in 2012," the owners recall. "One summer's evening we were on the front lawn sipping sun downers and gazing out at our sheep as they contentedly nibbled grass in one of our paddocks when Robert made the famous throwaway remark: instead of grazing these sheep perhaps it would be more rewarding to plant a vineyard."
The sheep were evicted (with due notice) and the vines went in. Both founders had already put away their professional tools - Robert had hung up his dentist's drill and Christopher had stepped back from publishing deadlines - and after 40 years of hard work they had been looking forward to taking things a little easier. "Not a chance as it turned out," they note dryly. The new hobby has become all-consuming, with around 250 days a year now spent among the vines.
It has not all been plain sailing. "If we had known then the blood, sweat and occasional tears of frustration involved in the process I wonder if we would ever have set out on the journey to produce the very best fizz we could from our vines." That journey now spans more than a decade and includes national trophies, multiple international gold medals and the launch of a recently published book about the estate's creation.
Planting the vines: 2012 onwards
The vineyard sits on free-draining loam over flint and chalk - classic Champagne-varietal country - and the owners have deliberately resisted expansion. The goal from day one has been low yield and high quality. Every vine is subjected to continuous scrutiny and exacting canopy management throughout the growing season to ensure the grape bunches are healthy and free of disease. "As our winemakers continue to impress upon us, they cannot make good wine out of poor grapes," is how they put it. All of the vineyard work is done by hand, come rain or shine, with a little bit of help from green-fingered volunteers and the occasional well-behaved spaniel called Ludo.
The Creating our vineyard gallery documents the first few years from sheep pasture to fruiting vines.
An organic and biodynamic estate
At the end of 2024, after a three-year conversion, Winding Wood became both organic and Demeter-certified biodynamic - a status held by only a small handful of vineyards in England and Wales. The estate embraces a regenerative approach to both the land and the vines, and to winemaking too. "This means using regenerative methods at all times: no tilling under the vine, always striving to improve soil biology, employing no synthetic chemicals; and using plants that contain medicinal properties to make teas for spraying over our vines. The goal: to build up the vine's resistance to disease. Ask Mr Mole about the soil, he loves all the bugs and insects."
Why bother? Biodynamics has a hippy-dippy reputation but there are plenty of advocates in alternative viticulture who do not grow a ponytail and wear open-toed sandals. The philosophy was promulgated by Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s in response to what he saw as the impoverishment of agriculture by the use of artificial fertilisers. Steiner argued that when farms incorporate a robust diversity of plants and animals and create a habitat for natural predators, there are few places for pests and diseases to thrive.
The teas, sprays and preparations
Fundamental to biodynamics is its salutogenic approach: attention is on achieving health instead of fighting disease. Take one square metre of healthy soil and you will find around 5,000 insects, molluscs and worms, plus some 300 different yeasts - compare that to an industrially farmed field and the difference is stark.
The Winding Wood spray programme uses:
- Minimal sulphur (as an antifungal foliar spray, never in the wines) and a tiny bit of copper.
- Seaweed, garlic, horn manure (BD500) for the soil, and horn silica (BD501).
- Yarrow (BD502), chamomile (BD503), stinging nettle (BD504), oak bark (BD505), dandelion (BD506), valerian (BD507) and common horsetail (BD508).
- Willow bark - for its salicylic acid content, the same active ingredient as aspirin.
Spraying the canopy according to the phases of the moon may sound cranky, but the owners are firm: medieval farmers worked around these cycles, and as the earth spins, different areas face the moon and tides cycle around the planet. "This movement of water is crucial. There are times to plant, times to prune, times to harvest, times to do various tasks in the vineyard, and of course, times to do nothing but rest. And remember that we humans are 60% water!"
Fighting the frost: bougies and heated wires
April and May are the critical months when night frosts can kill tender vine buds and devastate an entire crop in minutes. The classic Champagne defence is the bougies - hundreds of candles lit in the small hours to repel cold air. The Winding Wood team's photographs of burning candles at night and the morning after are widely shared on social media.
In 2016 they took a different route, having seen heated wires protecting vulnerable buds on an experimental few rows at Ridgeview in Sussex. "We decided to install wires throughout the entire vineyard. When the temperature drops to below zero, a thermostat automatically switches on the system transmitting 20 degrees of heat through the vine cane creating a halo of protective warmth against the frosty air. We have tested it and found it good to minus 4 degrees. We believe we are the first in England to install this revolutionary system throughout the entire vineyard."
There have been a few mishaps along the way - a back-of-tractor incident and an unfortunate secateur slip - but the system has now proved its worth over many seasons.
How the wine is made: traditional method, Offbeat winery
Every bottle of Winding Wood is made using the traditional method of two fermentations: the first in oak barrel, the second in bottle. The wine then ages for a minimum of 24 months on its lees before disgorging, followed by a further six months resting on cork before release. "The watchword is: fruit always comes first."
The winemakers
The first Winding Wood wines were made in 2013 - before a single vine had even been planted - by Emma Rice and Jacob Leadley at Hattingley Valley in Hampshire. That partnership ran for several vintages and produced the well-received 2015, 2016 and 2017 Classic Cuvée Bruts that are still available in the library.
In 2020 the production moved to Daniel and Nicola Ham at their boutique winery, Offbeat Wines, just outside Salisbury in Wiltshire. Daniel is a marine biologist by training who re-qualified at Plumpton, started under the legendary Mike Roberts at Ridgeview, became head winemaker at Langhams in Dorset, and now runs Offbeat with Nicola. His winemaking approach is low-intervention: only wild yeasts in the first fermentation, little or no sulphur, no enzymes, little sugar, no pumping. "We are one of only a handful of biodynamic vineyards in the country, becoming certified by Demeter in November 2024 after 3 years 'in conversion'. Look after the soil and it will look after the vines."
The grapes and the press
The two grape varieties used are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir - the classic Champagne varietals. Each has its own personality: Chardonnay is elegant, fruit-driven and fresh, while Pinot Noir brings body, structure and the all-important red fruit character to the Brut Rosé. While sparkling wines can be made from a single variety (a blanc de blancs is 100% Chardonnay), the team blends to create a recognisable house style.
The grapes are pressed at Offbeat within hours of being picked, having travelled in crates on a flat-bed trailer. Daniel uses a 2-tonne Coquard basket press - only 20 were ever made, 50 years old, and still a thing of beauty - plus a hand-operated press for small quantities. The juice is fermented in used Burgundian oak barrels and left until the following August, when it is bottled with yeast, sugar and a crown cap. Thus commences the second fermentation in bottle - the source of the bubbles.
Autolysis, riddling and disgorgement
During the second fermentation, the bottle lies on its side in a metal cage (a stillage) and the yeast settles to the bottom, where it begins to degrade. This is autolysis, and it is responsible for the toasted-bread, brioche and bruised-apple complexity of fine traditional-method sparkling wine. Winding Wood deliberately avoid leaving the wine on its lees for excessive periods, however, because the watchword remains: fruit first.
After a minimum of two years the bottles go into a gyropallet, which riddles all the dead yeast into the neck. The neck is then frozen, the frozen plug removed and replaced by the liqueur d'expédition (dosage), and the cork goes in with a wirehood. The wine then settles for another six months before labelling and release. Three years minimum from grape to glass.
The wines and their awards
Winding Wood only makes vintage wines and the wines sell out every year. Demand consistently outstrips supply, with a loyal following in both the private and restaurant sectors. "If you are keen to secure an allocation, consider joining our Wine Club."
Current releases from the shop
- Brut 2022 - £38.50. Pressed, fermented and bottled at Offbeat by Daniel Ham. Hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed, 27 months on lees, six months on cork. Bright gold, with Dabinett apple, green apricot and fresh-baked croissant on the nose; spring hedgerow notes of apple blossom and white flowers, fine-boned acidity and good weight. Cépage: Chardonnay 48%, Pinot Noir 52%. ABV 12.2%, dosage 2.75 g/L.
- 2022 Brut Rosé - £42.50. Decanter World Wine Awards 2026 Platinum, 97 points. "Ethereal rose garden and subtle strawberry and red apple aromatics weave into the plush toasted brioche core. Beautifully fresh with a gentle yet persuasive mousse and a long, allusive finish." Pinot Noir 85%, Chardonnay 11%, Pinot Meunier 4%, with 5% red wine from the ripest pinot. 18 months on lees, 6 months on cork.
- 2015 Classic Cuvée Brut Vintage - £50.00. The first Winding Wood vintage, made by Emma Rice at Hattingley Valley. Long aged on lees for 8 years after a few mislaid bottles were finally disgorged at Offbeat in 2024. Chardonnay 56%, Pinot Noir 44%. Elegant and light, pale gold, fine bubbles, toastiness on the nose with chardonnay coming through.
- 2016 Classic Cuvée Brut Vintage - £49.50. WineGB 2020 Gold Medal. The first vintage to include Pinot Meunier (14%), which gives it an extra dimension. Chardonnay 59%, Pinot Noir 27%, Pinot Meunier 14%.
- 2017 Classic Cuvée Brut Vintage - £49.50. Pale straw with a stream of fine bubbles; well-developed autolytic character with aromas of English apples, summer fruit and toastiness on the palate. Chardonnay 58%, Pinot Noir 42%.
Library bottles - including the 2018 Brut Rosé and older vintages - appear from time to time on the Library page as stock permits. Shipping is free for orders of six bottles or more (use code FREESHIP at checkout).
Trophy and medal highlights
- WineGB Awards 2024 - Gold medal and Trophy for Best Sparkling Rosé (Rosé 2020); Gold Medal for Brut Reserve 2018 (now sold out).
- Independent English Wine Awards 2024 - Gold medal and Trophy for Top Sparkling Wine in competition.
- Decanter World Wine Awards 2026 - Platinum, 97 points for the 2022 Brut Rosé.
- WineGB 2020 - Gold Medal for the 2016 Classic Cuvée Brut.
- Independent English Wine Awards 2022 - Gold Medal for the 2018 Brut Rosé.
Gifts and accessories
- Bottle Stopper - £6.00.
- Scented Candles - £25.00. Long-burning candles made from recycled Winding Wood bottles, in Nutmeg/Walnut/Vanilla, Sandalwood/Vanilla and Fig/Cassis.
- Tour and Tasting Gift Voucher - £30.00. A voucher code is emailed on purchase and redeemable against the cost of a tour and tasting.
The Wine Club: 75 memberships and counting
Winding Wood's Wine Club is limited to just 75 members and is "NOT just a discount club but a chance to meet other wine lovers and taste a multitude of fabulous award-winning English fizz and still wine releases from around the English wine regions." Members enjoy a 3-year subscription with annual discounts of more than 15%, plus invitations to events at the vineyard and beyond.
There are three categories:
- Silver - 6 bottles per year, 10% off RRP.
- Gold - 12 bottles per year, 15% off RRP.
- Platinum - 18 bottles per year, 20% off RRP.
All members get first refusal on wine releases, tastings and events throughout the year, the chance to bring friends for private tours, and an invitation to join the grape-picking team for the autumn vendange, with a hearty lunch afterwards. "Just drop us your email at hello@windingwoodvineyard.co.uk and we will send you a subscription form or alternatively provide your address and we will post you the details."
Visiting Winding Wood: tours and tastings for 2026
Tours return in May 2026, with bookings open via the Visit page and the shop booking page.
Group tours and tastings
Group tours run on Saturday afternoons during the summer months, May to October. The tour begins in the yard of what was an ancient farmstead dating back to Anglo Saxon times. After a brief history of farm and vineyard, there is a short walk to inspect the vines, taking in what stage the growing season has reached, preparations for harvest and discussions of biodynamic and organic viticulture versus conventional grape growing.
The tasting room forms part of a beautiful oak-framed 18th century threshing barn overlooking the vineyard. While sampling the three cuvées, the winemaking story unfolds - from harvest to the traditional method at Offbeat. The tasting room is furnished with display boards, diagrams and samples of the biodynamic applications, "culminating in a multisensory experience."
The tasting covers three of the award-winning sparkling wines: a Brut, a Brut Rosé, and a Demi-Sec. Duration 1.5 hours. £30 per person. The group runs with a minimum of 6 and a maximum of 12.
Private tours and tastings
For a minimum group of 8 people, with optional lunch or early supper of breads, charcuterie, cheeses and fruit, private tours and tastings are available mid-week from May to October, run by one of the owners. Includes the tour of the vines plus the tasting of three cuvées. Duration 1.5 - 2.5 hours. Price on application - enquire via Private Tours.
Corporate events with Wine With Polly
Winding Wood has joined forces with Wine With Polly to offer bespoke corporate experiences. Whether you are looking for a special venue for client appreciation, team building or simply an away day, packages can be tailored, with optional informative talks on the English wine scene, in-depth regional tastings and blind tasting experiences, plus gourmet menus from a trusted local chef. Half-day or full-day bookings available. Enquire direct with Christopher Cooke at hello@windingwoodvineyard.co.uk.
Visitor book highlights
- "We had a fantastic time at Winding Wood Vineyard. We learnt a lot about the process of making sparkling wine and we will now appreciate the efforts that go into the whole process - all the while drinking wine! We also enjoyed cuddling Ludo, the spaniel. Lovely experience and much recommended. The bride-to-be was very tipsy (a good sign)." - Irene and the girls, London, Dubai, and Cyprus.
- "Beautiful location and lovely estate. Wine making and vines make the whole experience superb. Cannot recommend more highly." - Bowes family, Wilts.
- "Such a treat to visit and a welcome break from London. Fantastic hosts and a beautiful setting. Thank you." - Sophie and Callum, London.
- "Beautiful dog, beautiful vines and an informative and passionate talk. Amazing wine." - Laura, staying at The Retreat at Elcot Park.
- "Small in size, great in vision and quality. Thanks for a memorable visit." - Angela, South Africa.
A year in the vineyard
The A year in the vineyard gallery runs through the seasons: winter pruning in January, a hard frost in February, fertiliser spreading and cane pruning in March, bud burst in April, Glastonbury-style shearing in May, bud rubbing and canopy management in June, a volunteer napping in July, the puff-the-magic-dragon period of veraison, military lines of chardonnay in September, golden harvest in October, Robert and his happy pickers, Bridget meticulously sorting a bunch, Leonie with her chemistry set, and the agronomist taking a soil sample in December.
Seasonal updates
Winding Wood has shared regular seasonal updates since the early 2020s. Recent posts have covered:
- March 2026 - a glorious pre-Easter spell touching 20 degrees with early frost worries after six weeks of daily rain from January; Richard and helpers bending canes around the fruiting wire for max contact with the heating wire; two self-inflicted cuts in the heated wires (tractor back and secateurs) and a willow hedge planted on the windy side.
- October 2025 - all picked by 5 October with close to 4.5 tonnes split evenly between pinot noir and chardonnay, all in wonderful condition with wild-yeast spontaneous fermentation already underway.
- July 2025 - down to Offbeat for the tasting trial before bottling the 2024 vintage. "Daniel declares that he will make some lovely wine."
- June 2025 - nigh-ideal flowering with warmth and a gentle breeze.
- May 2025 - war declared on the deer population, a new perimeter fence and Olympic-sized cattle grid installed; cousins, weather reports and the WineGB 2025 awards.
- March/April 2025 - Demeter organic/biodynamic certification confirmed by the British Biodynamic Association after three years' conversion; controlled-dieback pruning; heated-wire mishaps; willow hedge planting.
- December 2024 - Christmas fairs at two prep schools and Ramsbury Brewery; the loss of vineyard partner Robert Louth on Christmas Eve; dosage trials for the Brut 2020, Brut Reserve 2021 and Brut Rosé 2022.
- November 2024 - chardonnay picked on 13 November, a record for the latest harvest.
Planning your visit
The vineyard is open for cellar door sales by appointment - "or you can chance your arm!" The team are generally around working in the vineyard from May to early October. Tours run with a minimum of 6 people for group tours and a minimum of 8 for private tours. Bookings are made via the online shop, but you can also email or telephone for general availability.
The address is Winding Wood Vineyard, Orpenham Farm, Winding Wood, Hungerford, West Berks RG17 9RJ. Email hello@windingwoodvineyard.co.uk or telephone 07798 885050 (Christopher). The vineyard is also findable on Google Maps.
Order wine online
The shop carries current releases and a regularly updated library section. UK mainland delivery is £15.00 (free for orders of 6 bottles or more with the FREESHIP code). All bottles are boxed and individually packed in special 3-part Pulpsafe to ensure no breakages in transit. Please reuse or recycle.
The art of making English sparkling wine
A beautiful set of illustrations by Caroline Finlayson - a supporter of Winding Wood from its inception - walks visitors through the nine traditional-method stages: pre-harvest grape analysis, the cuvee and taille pressings, first fermentation in barrel with wild yeasts and chaptalisation, the second fermentation in bottle after barrel ageing, a minimum of 24 months maturation on lees, riddling prior to disgorgement, disgorging the lees (the frozen plug pops out under 6 bar of pressure), adding the dosage, foiling the wirehead, labelling, and finally six months' settling on cork before release. "Et voila. Three years minimum from grape to glass."
Final thoughts
Winding Wood Vineyard is the kind of small, characterful English estate that justifies the excitement around the modern English sparkling wine scene. Two people, a handful of well-behaved spaniels, a 4.6-metre deer fence, 2,500 vines on flint-and-chalk soils, eight biodynamic preparations, a Coquard basket press, a gyropallet, a trio of trophies, and a serious commitment to letting the fruit shine through. Whether the visit comes on a Saturday afternoon in summer, a private mid-week tour with lunch, a gift voucher redeemed at the cellar door, or simply a bottle or two ordered online, the result is the same: a decade and a half of patient, biodynamic, hand-tended work, in the glass.
"The best things come to those that wait." - and at Winding Wood, the wait is well worth it.